Beijing

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A stone lion guards Mao's portrait at the entrance to the Forbidden City
A stone lion guards Mao's portrait at the entrance to the Forbidden City

Beijing (北京 Běijīng) is the capital of the most populous country in the world, the People's Republic of China. It was also the seat of the Ming and Qing dynasty emperors until the formation of a republic in 1911. As such it is rich in historical sites and important government institutions.

The city is well known for its flatness and regular construction. There are only three hills to be found in the city limits (in Jingshan Park to the north of the famous Forbidden City). Like the configuration of the Forbidden City, Beijing has concentric "ring roads", which are actually rectangular, that go around the metropolis.

Beijing made history in 2008 with the first Olympic Games ever to be held in China.

[edit] Districts

Beijing has a total of 16 districts and 2 counties.

8 districts are close to the city centre:

  • Xicheng District (西城区 Xīchéng Qū).
  • Chongwen District (崇文区 Chóngwén Qū).
  • Xuanwu District (宣武区 Xuānwǔ Qū).
  • Chaoyang District (朝阳区 Cháoyáng Qū).
  • Dongcheng District (东城区 Dōngchéng Qū).
  • Haidian District (海淀区 Hǎidiàn Qū).
  • Fengtai District (丰台区 Fēngtái Qū).
  • Shijingshan District (石景山区 Shíjǐngshān Qū).

The other 8 districts are further afield:

  • Mentougou District (门头沟区 Méntóugōu Qū).
  • Fangshan District (房山区 Fángshān Qū).
  • Shunyi District (顺义区 Shùnyì Qū).
  • Changping District (昌平区 Chāngpíng Qū).
  • Daxing District (大兴区 Dàxīng Qū).
  • Pinggu District (平谷区 Pínggǔ Qū).
  • Huairou District (怀柔区 Huáiróu Qū).

Except for Mentougou, all of these eight districts switched from being counties to districts from 1988 to 2001.

Chaoyang District and ShunyiDistrict are the districts with most foreign activities

[edit] Counties

These two counties lie very far from central Beijing:

  • Yanqing County (延庆县 Yánqìng Xiàn).
  • Miyun County (密云县 Mìyún Xiàn).

[edit] Understand

[edit] History

Beijing literally means "Northern Capital", a role it has played many times in China's long history. While various small towns and warlord capitals have been traced back as far as the 1st millennium BCE, Beijing first served as the capital of a (more or less) united China in 1264 when Kublai Khan's victorious Mongol forces set up what they named the Great Capital to rule their new empire, from a northern location closer to the Mongol homelands.

After the fall of the Mongol Yuan dynasty in 1368, the capital was moved back to Nanjing ("Southern Capital"), but in 1403, the 3rd Ming emperor Zhu Di moved it to Beijing again and also gave the city its present name. This was Beijing's golden era: the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven and many other Beijing landmarks were built at this time. Beijing remained the capital into the Qing era and into the revolutionary ferment of the early 1900s, but in the chaos following the abdication of the last Emperor, Beijing was beset by fighting warlords. The Kuomintang thus moved the capital to Nanjing again in 1928, renaming Beijing as Beiping ("Northern Peace") to emphasize that it was no longer a capital. However, the Kuomintang was eventually defeated by the Communists, who in 1949 proclaimed the People's Republic of China with its capital at Beijing.

[edit] Language

The language of Beijing is Mandarin Chinese. Mandarin itself was the administrative language of the Ming and Qing dynasties and was based mainly on the Beijing dialect. For language students this makes studying in Beijing an excellent chance to learn the language in a relatively pure form. That being said, Beijing dialect contains nasal "er" sounds at the end of many words. Hence the ubiquitous lamb kabobs (羊肉串 yáng ròu chuàn) become "yáng ròu chuànr." Beijing taxi drivers are famously chatty and will gladly engage students of the language offering excellent chances to practice the language and get a feel for the changes in the city and country from an "Old Beijinger".

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Scams at the airport

Arrival: Take your taxis from the stand outside, not the touts or desks inside, and insist on the meter. If you are in a group of three or more or have a lot of luggage, touts will tell you you need a minibus, and then lead you towards a people carrier in a car park, but then it will turn out they are actually leading you to a shabby taxi parked behind it, which will charge far more than the regulated fare.

Be aware of another scam where impostors who pretend to work for the taxi company pose at the official-looking stands outside offering rides to the city (especially in the non-regular hours where there are not many people about). You will be led into a "taxi" with a fake meter (which could be hidden) which runs very quickly (¥200-300　to the city, and even up to ¥400 to the Birds' Nest Stadium). Read the section on taxis for details on how to distinguish between fake and legitimate taxis.

Departure: Ignore any people walking around offering to sell you an exit fee ticket/receipt. There used to be an airport construction (or exit) fee of ¥90, but now it is included in the plane ticket.

Beijing Capital International Airport (北京首都国际机场 Běijīng Shǒudū Guójì Jīcháng, IATA: PEK) [1] is located to the northeast of the central districts, 26 km from the city centre. The airport, which was expanded at a furious pace to be ready in time for the 2008 Olympics, now has three terminals, broadly speaking divided as follows:

  • Terminal 1: Hainan Airlines.
  • Terminal 2: China Southern Airlines, China Eastern Airlines, Skyteam.
  • Terminal 3: Air China, Shanghai Airlines, Oneworld, Star Alliance.

Terminal 3 officially opened on March 26th 2008, but migration will be gradual. Some airlines, such as Air China/Shanghai Airlines, moved immediately and other carriers are following later. Double-check your departure terminal before arrival. Travel between Terminals 1 and 2 is via a long corridor with travelators. A fit person can make the route in about 10 minutes. A free shuttle bus runs between Terminal 2 and the new terminal 3. It departs every ten minutes or so and the journey time is about 10 minutes. Terminal 3 is huge: it alone is bigger than all five of Heathrow (London)'s terminals. Additional time should be allocated when flying from here. T3 check-in closes 45 minutes before flights depart.

Facilities on arrival include ATMs and money changers. Be aware that upon departure, porters may want ¥10 to wheel your bags 50 m to check-in and that most eating options are rather outrageously priced. Before you cross through security, if you want a bite to eat in the Terminal 1, there is a KFC which has lowered its prices a little, and in Terminal 2, there are 2 KFCs, and the restaurants in the basement have relatively low prices compared to what's above. A meal at any of these places should be around ¥20.

Many people use taxicabs to reach town from the airport. Try to get the Chinese name in characters of your hotel so that you can let your taxi driver read where you want to go. It is important to do this as most drivers cannot read English and many are recent arrivals from the countryside who might not know the city well. A taxi from the airport should cost ¥70-120. You will have to pay the fee shown on the meter (make sure the driver uses it) plus ¥10 toll for the airport expressway. Traffic jams are common.

The Airport Express train to the airport opened in July 2008. The train runs in a one-way loop from T3 to T2/T1 then Sanyuanqiao (transfer to subway line 10) and Dongzhimen (lines 2, 13). A one-way fare is ¥25, and the trip takes about 20 minutes from Dongzhimen to T3, 30 min to T2. Don't take the train just to get from T3 and T2, as this will cost you the full ¥25; use the free shuttle bus instead.

A slightly cheaper way to get to the city centre is to take the airport shuttle (机场巴士 Jīchǎng Bāshì), ☎ +86 10 64594375/64594376, [2]. Buses for each route leave every 10-30 minutes. There are several lines running to different locations throughout Beijing. ¥16 for a one-way trip.  edit

  • Line 1 (to Fangzhuang): 1. Liangma Bridge (亮马桥 Liàngmǎqiáo); 2. Baijiazhuang (白家庄 Báijiāzhuāng); 3. World Trade Centre (国贸 Guómào) & Dabeiyao (大北窑 Dàběiyáo); 4. Panjiayuan (潘家园 Pānjiāyuán); 5. KingWing Hot Spring International Hotel (京瑞大厦 Jīngruì Dàshà) & Shilihe (十里河 Shílǐhé); 6. Guiyou Shopping Mall (贵友大厦 Guìyǒu Dàshà) & Fangzhuang (方庄 Fāngzhuāng). Runs 7:30AM-10:30PM. Return stops are 6, 3, and the airport. Convenient for getting to the south east of the city.
  • Line 2 (to Xidan): 1. Sanyuan Bridge (三元桥 Sānyuán Qiáo) 2. Dongzhimen (东直门 Dōngzhímén); 3. Dongsishitiao Bridge (东四十条桥 Dōngsìshítiáo Qiáo); 4. Civil Aviation Building (民航营业大厦 Mínháng Yíngyè Dàshà) & Xidan (西单 Xīdān). Return stops are 4, 2, and the airport. Runs 7AM till the last flight. Heads south-west.
  • Line 3 (to Beijing Railway Station): 1. Yuyang Hotel (渔阳饭店 Yúyáng fàndiàn); 2. Dongdaqiao (东大桥 Dōngdàqiáo, bypassed after 22:30); 3. Chaoyangmen (朝阳门 Cháoyángmén); 4. Yabaolu (雅宝路 Yǎbǎolù); 5. Beijing Railway Station (北京站 Běijīng zhàn). Runs 7:30AM till the last flight. The Beijing Railway Station stop is actually at the west gate of the International Hotel (国际饭店 Guójì Fàndiàn), across Chang'an Avenue. Return stops are 5, Dongzhimen, the Jingxin Building West Gate (京信大厦西门 Jīngxìn Dàshà Xīmén), and the airport. Convenient for the city center, the southeast of the city, and Chaoyang, Chongwen, and Dongcheng districts.
  • Line 4 (to Gongzhufen): 1. China International Exhibition Centre (国际展览中心 Guójì Zhǎnlǎn Zhōngxīn); 2. Xibahe (西坝河 Xībàhé); 3. Anzhen Bridge (安贞桥 Ānzhēn Qiáo); 4. Madian Bridge (马甸桥 Mǎdiàn Qiáo); 5. Beitaipingzhuang (北太平庄 Běitàipíngzhuāng); 6. Jimen Bridge (蓟门桥 Jìmén Qiáo); 7. Friendship Hotel (友谊宾馆 Yǒuyì Bīnguǎn); 8. Beijing TV Station (北京电视台 Běijīng Diànshìtái); 9. Zizhu Bridge (紫竹桥 ǐzhú Qiáo); 10. Hangtian Bridge (航天桥 Hángtiān Qiáo); 11. Gongzhufen (公主坟 Gōngzhǔfén) & Xinxing Hotel (新兴宾馆 Xīnxīng Bīnguǎn). Return stops are 11, 7, 5, 3, and the airport. Runs from 7AM to 11PM. Convenient for the north and north-west of the city, and Haidian district.
  • Line 5 (to Zhongguancun): 1. Wangjing (望京 Wàngjīng) & Huajiadi (花家地 Huājiādì); 2. Xiaoying (小营 Xiǎoyíng); 3. Asian Games Village (亚运村 Yàyùncūn) & Anhui Bridge (安慧桥 Ānhuì Qiáo); 4.Xueyuan Bridge (学院桥 Xuéyuàn qiáo); 5. Just west of Bǎofúsì Qiáo (保福寺桥). Return stops are 5, Beijing Aeronautics University North Gate (北航北门 Běiháng Běimén), Huixin West Street (惠新西街 Huìxīn XīJiē)/Anhui Building (安徽大厦 Ānhuī Dàshà), Huixin Dongjie (惠新东街 Huìxīn Dōngjiē) & SINOPEC (中国石化集团 Zhōngguó Shíhuà Jítuán), and the airport. From 8:30AM to 9:30PM. Convenient for the north of the city, particularly the university district within Haidian.

The shuttle bus website also has a map available.

The cheapest way would be to take public bus #359, which runs from the airport to Dongzhimen, where you can catch subway 2 or 13, but this is not very fast or convenient.

A number of youth hostels and luxury hotels run their own complimentary shuttle buses services - ask the place where you are staying if they have one.

Nanyuan Airport (南苑机场 Nányuàn Jīchǎng, IATA: NAY) is a former military airfield 17 km to the south of Beijing, currently used only by army-linked low-cost operator China United (中国联合 Zhōngguó Liánhé) [3]. China United currently fields daily flights to Harbin, Dalian, Sanya, Chongqing, Chengdu, and Wuxi. Free shuttle buses run from China United's ticket office to and from the Xidan Aviation Building (西单民航大厦 Xīdān Mínháng Dàshà). Times depend on flight schedules.

[edit] By train

Beijing West Railway Station
Beijing West Railway Station

Beijing has many railway stations. Most trains arrive at the central, West, South or North stations.

[edit] By car

Since the Olympics in 2008, foreigners are allowed to rent vehicles while in China.

Beijing is the hub of several expressways heading in all directions and the following is a list of the expressways and their destinations:

  • Jichang (Airport) Expressway (Beijing (Sanyuanqiao - Siyuan - Beigao - Xiaotianzu - Beijing Capital International Airport)).
  • Jingcheng (Beijing (Taiyanggong - Wanghe Bridge - Gaoliying - Huairou - Miyun - Gubeikou) - Luanping (滦平 Luánpíng, in Hebei) - Chengde).
  • Jingtong/Jingha (Beijing (Dawang Bridge - Sihui - Gaobeidian - Shuangqiao - Huicun - Tongzhou District)).
  • Jingshen (Beijing (Sifang Bridge - Shiyuan Bridge - Huoxian County, Tongzhou - Xiji) - Xianghe (Hebei) - Jixian County (Tianjin) - Jinwei - Tangshan (Hebei) - Beidaihe - Qinhuangdao - Shanhaiguan - Jinzhou (Liaoning) - Shenyang).
  • Jingjintang (Beijing (Fenzhongsi - Shibalidian - Dayangfang - Majuqiao - Caiyu) - Langfang (Hebei) - Tianjin (Yangcun - Central Tianjin - Tianjin Airport - Tanggu District/TEDA)).
  • Jingkai (Beijing (Yuquanying - Daxing - Huangcun - Panggezhuang - Yufa) - China National Highway 106)).
  • Jingshi (Beijing (Liuliqiao - Wanping - Liulihe) - Shijiazhuang (Hebei)) {Also known as the 'Jingzhu Expressway' (Beijing - Zhuhai)}.
  • Badaling (Jingzhang) Expressway (Beijing - Badaling Expressway - Donghuayuan - Huailai - Xiahuayuan - Zhangjiakou).

11 China National Highways (国道 Guódào) also link into Beijing:

[edit] By bus

Long-distance buses from areas as far as Shanghai and the Mongolian border connect to Beijing. You can reach areas as far as Harbin or Xi'an on a single bus ride. Beijing has over 20 long distance bus stations, but what you need to do is go to the bus station located on the edge of the city in the direction you want to travel.

  • Deshengmen Long Distance Bus Station (德胜门外长途汽车站 Déshèngménwài Chángtú Qìchēzhàn), ☎ +86 10 82847096. Also handles buses for the north and northwest. Destinations include: Baochang (宝昌 Bǎochāng), Chicheng (赤城 Chìchéng), Dongmao (东卯 Dōngmǎo), Guyuan, Sandaochuan (三道川 Sāndàochuān), Yuxian (芋县 Yùxiàn), and Zhangjiakou (张家口 Zhāngjiākǒu).  edit
  • Dongzhimen Long Distance Bus Station (东直门长途汽车站 Dōngzhímén Chángtú Qìchēzhàn), ☎ +86 10 64674995/64671346. Handles buses heading northeast. Destinations include Changyuan (长垣 Chángyuán), Chengde (4.5 hrs), Chifeng (赤峰 Chìfēng, 12 hrs), Fengning (丰宁 Fēngníng, 5 hrs), Fengshan (凤山 Fèngshān), Guanshang (关上 Guānshàng), Huairou district, Jiaozhuanghu (焦庄户 Jiāozhuānghù), Mafang (马坊 Mǎfāng), Miyun County, Nanzhuangtou (南庄头 Nánzhuāngtóu), Pinggu district (2.5 hrs), Sishang (寺上 Sìshàng), Shunyi district, Wuxiongsi (吴雄寺 Wúxióngsì), and Xinglong (兴隆 Xīnglōng).  edit
  • Sihui Long Distance Bus Station (四惠长途汽车站 Sìhuì Chángtú Qìchēzhàn), ☎ +86 10 65574804. Handles buses mainly heading east. Destinations include: Changchun, Chengde, Dalian, Dandong, Liaoyang (辽阳 Liáoyáng), Tangshan (唐山 Tángshān), and Tianjin.  edit
  • Zhaogongkou Long Distance Bus Station (赵公口长途汽车站 Zhàogōngkǒu Chángtú Qìchēzhàn), ☎ +86 10 67237328. Handles buses heading south and southeast. Destinations include Cangzhou (沧州 Cāngzhōu, 3.5hrs., ¥70), Jinan (5.5hrs., ¥114), Tanggu (塘沽 Tánggū, 2.5hrs., ¥45), Tianjin (1.5hrs., ¥35).  edit

Most of the buses from the Long Distance Bus Stations will be regular or express buses, which take the expressways, cost from ¥200-600 per trip, have comfy seats, and most rides don't take more than 6-12 hours, but sleeper buses are also available. A sleeper bus, with bunk beds in rows, average about ¥100 per trip, but many go really slowly up hills, avoid expressways, stop at every city or town, provide "meals" which you have to pay extra for, take the potholed National Highways to save money, and a bus ride can take up to 24 hours. The average speed is only 40 km/hr on the moderately fast sleeper buses, and the range could be from 25 to 60 km/hr. It may be a good authentic taste of how less wealthy Chinese people travel.

[edit] Get around

Though many residents of Beijing know conversational English especially in the areas frequented by tourists or the university district, one should not count on finding a taxi driver who knows English well. Neither should a foreigner with minimal experience with the Chinese language put undue faith in his or her ability to pronounce Chinese place names so that a local can understand clearly. Before embarking on a trip around the city, print out the names of places you want to visit in Chinese characters. When going to specific addresses try to write nearby intersections or basic directions as well. Show the text to the taxi driver, or just ask for help on the street. You have more chance to get help in English if you address younger people, as many schools in China have expanded their English education in the last few years.

Crossing the road in China is an art and may be difficult for pedestrians unused to Beijing's particular driving styles. Before crossing, assume that none of the road users will give way to you, even if a policeman is present. Zebra crossings are redundant. Chinese drivers lean on the horn heavily and frequently play games of chicken with pedestrians and other vehicles. Should you hear a loud horn when crossing the road, always look around as there is probably a car right behind you or heading straight for you. Should you find several cars and bicycles meandering towards you from different directions, do not try to run to safety, but instead stand still. For drivers a stationary obstacle is easier to avoid. Also note that traffic light crossings have zebra stripes painted on the road, but you should only cross when the walk light is green. As with pedestrian crossings in many countries, there is strength in numbers. When a mass of people crosses together cars are more likely to stop or slow down.

[edit] By train / subway

Beijing subway map, from July 2008
Beijing subway map, from July 2008

The subway is a good way to quickly get around the city and is clearly marked in English for travelers. However, be warned that during rush hour trains can be extremely crowded. The subway system shuts down around midnight, and opens again around 5 AM. Lines are currently as follows although more are under construction:

  • Line 1 - Red. Runs from the industrial Pingguoyuan area in the west to Sihui East in eastern Beijing. It has 21 stops and follows Chang'an Avenue, the main avenue of Beijing. It links Xidan, Tian'anmen East and West, Wangfujing, Dongdan, Guomao, and Yong'anli. Transfer stations are at Fuxingmen (Line 2), Dongdan (Line 5), Jianguomen (Line 2), and Sihui/Sihui East (Batong Line).  edit
  • Line 2 - Dark Blue (The Loop Line). It follows the north part of the 2nd Ring Road and Qianmen Avenue. Major stops of interest include Qianmen, a major transportation hub as well as an attraction in its own right. Transfer stations are at Fuxingmen (Line 1), Jianguomen (Line 1), Yonghegong the Lama Temple (Line 5), Chongwenmen (Line 5), Xizhimen (Line 13), and Dongzhimen (Line 13).  edit
  • Line 5 - Purple. Beijing's first north-south subway line. Useful stops include the Temple of Heaven (Tiantan Dongmen). Transfer stations are at Lishuiqiao (Line 13), Yonghegong the Lama Temple (Line 2), Dongdan (Line 1), and Chongwenmen (Line 2).  edit
  • Line 8 - Green (Olympic Branch). Connects Line 10 to the Olympic Village.  edit
  • Line 10 - Light Blue. Connects the university district in Haidian with the embassy and CBD areas.  edit
  • Line 13 - Orange-Yellow. Does an extended northern semi-loop from Dongzhimen via Huilongguan through to Xizhimen. Transfer stations are at Xizhimen and Dongzhimen (both to Line 2), Lishuiqiao (Line 5).  edit
  • Batong Line - Red (Line 8T). Runs east from Sihui to Tuqiao in eastern suburban Beijing. Transfer stations are at Sihui and Sihui East (both to Line 1). The Batong Line is not of much use for travelers.  edit
  • Airport Line - Grey. Runs from Dongzhimen to Sanyuanqiao, to Capital Airport Terminals 2 & 3. One-way fare is ¥25.  edit
Subway station in Beijing.
Subway station in Beijing.

The subway station entrances are identified by a large blue stylized letter G wrapped around a smaller letter B.

The subway ticket costs ¥2. Note: a ticket can only be used in the same station in which you purchased it, and only on that same day. There is also a pre-paid card available (一卡通 Yīkātōng). There is a ¥20 refundable deposit for the card. It can also be used for reduced-price bus rides.

[edit] By bicycle

Once known as a nation of bicycles, China today has an ever growing number of private car owners. So, nowadays you are guaranteed to see more bikes in any city in the Netherlands than in Beijing. However, the infrastructure from its days as capital of the "Bicycle Kingdom" means exploring Beijing on a bike is excellent. The city is flat as a pancake and all major streets have bike lanes. Bicycling is often faster than traveling by car, taxi or bus because of the traffic congestion in the motorized traffic lanes.

Four-wheeled motorized traffic in Beijing usually observes traffic signals with the exception of making turns on red lights which is often done without slowing or deferring to pedestrians or bicyclists. Pedestrians, bicycles and all other vehicles (for example, motorized bicycles, mopeds and tricycles) generally do not observe traffic signals. Also, cars, trucks and buses do not defer to cyclists on the road so it is common for a vehicle to make a right turn from an inside lane across a bike lane with no concern for cyclists traveling in the bike lane. Sometimes a right-turning vehicle crossing a bike lane will sound its horn as a warning, but not always. Cyclists also need to be on the lookout for wrong-way traffic in the bike lanes, usually bicycles and tricycles but sometimes motor vehicles, too. Wrong-way traffic usually stays close to the curb so you move to the left to get by them, but not always. Helmets are not worn by bicycling Beijingers. Nor are lights used at night with few bikes even having rear reflectors. The moderate pace and sheer numbers of bicyclists in Beijing appears to make bike travel safer than it would be otherwise.

While you will see cyclists use many creative paths across wide, busy intersections in Beijing, the safest way for cyclists is to observe the traffic signals (there are often special signals for bicyclists) and to make left turns in two steps as a pedestrian would. But if you spend any significant amount of time cycling in Beijing, you will probably start adopting more creative approaches. These can be learned by finding a local cyclist going your way and following him or her across the intersection.

Several professional bike rental companies, as well as major hotels and some hostels, rent bikes on an hourly basis. For those who need the security of a guide, a bike touring company like Bicycle Kingdom Rentals & Tours [4] would be a great way to go.

If you are staying more than a few days a reasonable bike can be bought for ¥300. Ensure that you have a good lock included in the price. The cheapest bikes are not worth the additional savings as you will get what you pay for. The cheapest bikes will start to deteriorate as soon as you begin to ride, so spend a little more and get a bike in the 300-400 range. Bike rentals may have good bikes, but you pay a high price and run the risk of the bike being stolen.

[edit] By bus

Beijing's bus system is cheap, convenient and covers the entire city—perfect for locals but, alas, difficult to use if you don't understand Chinese. The bus staff speak little English, and only a few bus lines in the city center broadcast stop names in English. Bus stop signs are also entirely in Chinese. But should you speak Chinese or have a healthy sense of adventure, a bus can get you almost anywhere, and often somewhere that you never intended to go: it's a great way to see parts of the city that tourists normally don't visit.

Most bus fares are relatively cheap, but if you get a public transportation card from a metro station (a card that acts as a debit card for the metro and buses) you can get a 60% discount on all fares.

Many shiny new buses arrived on the streets in preparation for the Olympics. Many buses now feature air-conditioning (heating in winter), TVs, a scrolling screen that displays stops in Chinese, and a broadcast system that announces stops. If you are having problems navigating the bus system, call the English-speaking operators at the Beijing Public Transportation Customer Helpline (96166).

Warning: Beijing buses can get very crowded so be prepared and keep an eye on your valuables. Many pickpockets frequent buses and subways, so carry backpacks in the front, and try to put your valuables somewhere hard to access. Be aware of a scam offering bus rides to the Great Wall masquerading as the real bus service. Instead of directly driving to the Great Wall, you will instead be led to a series of tours to dilapidated theme parks, tourist shops, museums, etc before finally reaching the Great Wall near the end of the day.

[edit] Bus routes

Bus lines are numbered from 1-999. Buses under 300 serve the city center. Buses 300 and up run between the city center and more distant areas (such as beyond the Third Ring Road). Buses in the 900s connect Beijing with its "rural" districts (i.e., Changping, Yanqing, Shunyi, etc) that are not considered part of Beijing proper.

Full maps of the system are available only in Chinese. The Beijing Public Transport Co. [5] website has limited information in English, but the Chinese version has a very helpful routing service with an interactive map. You can input your starting point and your ending point and see all the bus routes that will get you from A to B, look up a bus route by number, or input a place name and see all the routes that go stop there.

[edit] Fares and operating hours

Most buses with a line number under 200 run daily from 5:00 to 23:00. Buses with a line number greater than 300 run from 6AM till 10PM. All buses with a line number in the 200s are night buses. Many routes get very crowded during rush hours (6:30AM-9AM and 5PM-9PM). On all major holidays, there will be more frequent service on most city routes.

For passengers paying by cash: Lines 1-199 operate on a flat rate of ¥1 per journey. Lines 300-899 charge ¥1 for the first 12 km of each journey and ¥0.5 for each additional 5 km. Buses with air-condition (800-899) start at ¥2. The night buses (200-299) charge ¥2 per journey.

For passengers paying by the new pre-paid Smart Card: Lines 1-499 operate on a flat rate of ¥0.40 per journey. Lines 500-899 get 60% off the cash price. There are also 3-day, 7-day and 15-day passes available for travelers. There is no return ticket or day ticket.

[edit] By minibus

Minibuses are very common in the countryside outside the urban areas. Privately operated, most trips cost less than ¥10 per short journey and only a little more for longer journeys.

[edit] By taxi

a Citroen taxi with dark red paint, in front of the gate of Summer Palace. Note the small blue label with white word "TAXI" on the top left of the windshield
a Citroen taxi with dark red paint, in front of the gate of Summer Palace. Note the small blue label with white word "TAXI" on the top left of the windshield

Taxis are the preferred choice for getting around, as they are convenient and are fairly inexpensive for travelers from Western countries. The only downsides are that Beijing's congested traffic often results in long jams, and taxi drivers are often recent arrivals from the countryside who do not know the city well. Vehicles used as taxis include the Hyundai Sonata and Elantra, Volkswagen Santana and Jetta (the old model, designed in the 1980s), and Citroens manufactured in China. These taxis are dark red, or yellow top with dark blue bottom, or painted with new colors (see picture). Luxurious black executive cars (usually Audis) can also be found, usually waiting outside hotels.

[edit] Fares and meters

Beginning from June 2006, all taxis charge a starting fee of ¥10, and an additional ¥2 per kilometer after the first 3 km. Taxi meters keep running when the speed is slower than 12 km per hr. or when waiting for green lights; five minutes of waiting time equals 1 km running. Outside of rush hour, an average trip through the city costs around ¥20-25, and a cross-town journey about ¥50 (for example, from the city center to the northern side of the Fourth Ring Road).

If the taxi driver "forgets" to switch the taxi meter on, remind him or her by politely saying qǐng dǎ biǎo (请打表) This means "Run the meter, please". Get a receipt (in case you want to make a complaint later or for business reimbursement purposes) by saying fā piào (发票) or gesturing at the meter and making a writing motion.

new paint of Beijing taxis, with a dark yellow strip and name of the taxi company in the center, and other parts are dark reddish brown (also could be white, dark green or dark blue)
new paint of Beijing taxis, with a dark yellow strip and name of the taxi company in the center, and other parts are dark reddish brown (also could be white, dark green or dark blue)

If you want a tour around Beijing and its vicinities, you can ask your hotel to hire a cab for one day or several days. It usually costs ¥400-600 per day, depending on where you go. If you have Chinese-speaking assistance, then bargain down the cost. No matter the cost, the taxi is yours for the day and will wait for you at various destinations.

Communicating with the drivers can be a problem, as most do not speak English. You can ask that your hotel write your destination on a card to give to the driver. Make sure also to take the hotel's card (and a map) that lists the hotel's address in Chinese. This can be a 'get out of jail free' card if you get lost and need to get back via taxi. A regular city map with streets and sights in Chinese will help also.

When it rains, it's really hard to find a taxi. Most of them refuse to take passenger, truth is they're most likely to rise their fares. Although it's unreasonable (triple to five times the normal fare), sometimes it's better to take their offers, rather than to wait for another one.

a shabby taxi with a "京C" license, outside gate of the Summer Palace
a shabby taxi with a "京C" license, outside gate of the Summer Palace

[edit] Avoiding scams and fakes

All official taxis have license plates beginning with the letter "B", as in "京B". "Black cabs" may look like taxis but their license plates will start with letters other than B. It's nearly impossible to hail a black cab on the streets; they generally hang out around tourist sights like the Great Wall and the Summer Palace or around subway stops. Black cabs will charge you a higher fee for the journey, unless you are a good bargainer, know where you are going, and know what the right fare should be. Sometimes they drop foreign tourists in wrong places. In some extreme cases, the driver may even take them to the countryside and rob them. If you find you hired a fake taxi and are overcharged, don't argue if you are alone, pay the driver and remember the car's license plate number, then call police later.

To avoid being taken advantage of, it is a good idea to know the rough direction, cost, and distance of your destination. You can easily find this out from asking locals before calling a cab. Verify these values with the taxicab driver to show them that you are in the know, and are probably too much trouble to cheat. Keep track of the direction of travel with a compass and/or the sun. If the cab goes in the wrong direction for a long distance, verify the location with the taxi driver. For scamming drivers, that is usually enough for them to go back on the right track (without ever acknowledging that they were trying to cheat you). Honest drivers will explain why they are going that way.

Keep in mind that central Beijing can be off limits at certain times, forcing cabs to reroute. And some roads forbid left turns (with big road signs) either at certain hours or all the time, so the driver might make a detour.

A note on maps

Beijing (and many other Chinese cities) is changing at such a phenomenal pace that it isn't at all unusual for maps to be out of date by the time they are printed. Most maps will have a few errors where old roads have been bulldozed or replaced by new roads on a different alignment. Whole areas may be gone - replaced by new districts or dual-carriageways. Subway stations and other facilities that were expected to come online by the time the map was to be printed may have been built elsewhere or scrapped and not exist at all!

If you find yourself utterly lost or unable to find your desired destination despite following a map perfectly, bear in mind that you may not have taken a wrong turning - it is entirely possible that your destination or chosen route doesn't exist any more. It's a good idea to take more than one map if possible, and if you are lost compare the two to see if one shows a different layout. Also, always pick up the latest version of a paper tourist map to complement your more expensive map/guidebook.

[edit] By car

Renting a car normally is not recommended for the ordinary visitor. Besides being extremely expensive, driving in Beijing can be quite complicated, language difficulties included. Many hotels, however, rent cars that come with drivers, for those who can afford it, up to ¥1000 per day.

  • BCNC Car Rental. Toll-free in China 010800/810-9001 [6]. Based at the Capital Airport, this agency is appointed as an option by several guides. An air ticket is required, as well as an international driving license. Mind you that deposits can be huge, and there are extra charges for permission to venture beyond the city limits.
  • Avis also operates a car-rental service in Beijing.

See also Driving in China.

[edit][add listing] See

  • Forbidden City (故宫 Gù Gōng, also known as the Palace Museum). Get there when the gates open (around 8.30AM) if you want to walk through the vast and spectacular courtyards in relative peace. This is truly the spot to appreciate the might and grandeur of the Imperial Chinese court during the height of its power in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Despite the transformation of the city around it, the Forbidden City remains mercifully relatively untouched. There are a handful of cafes and gift shops, which are surprisingly not very overpriced considering what a tourist area it is. Only two-fifths of the area of the palace is opened. You can rent an audio guided tour which explains certain temples and their uses for ¥40 with a ¥100 deposit (more than a dozen languages available). The signs posted around and on buildings inside are fairly short and are written in both Chinese and English. You can reach the Forbidden City via subway line 1 to Tiananmen West or Tiananmen East,or by buses lines 1,4,52 and 728. Alternatively, the lines 101,109 and 810 stop at the north gate of Forbidden City. ¥60 for entrance.  edit
Tiananmen Square
Tiananmen Square
  • Tiananmen Square (天安门广场 Tiānānmén Guǎngchǎng). Largest square in the world. Built by Mao to impress; the square is surrounded by Soviet-style monuments and government buildings, and houses Mao's mausoleum at the end opposite the entrance to the Forbidden City. It remains an astounding place and a spot to linger and see visitors from all over China, many visiting their capital for the first time. There is a flag raising and lowering ceremony at dawn and dusk. There are 4 marble lions in front of the Tiananmen gate, the northwest one has a bullet hole on its stomach from the 1989 Tianamen Square massacre (the lions are enclosed by fences, making the NW one nearly impossible to see close up). Entrance to the Mausoleum is free but expect huge queues. No bags, cameras or water bottles are allowed inside and must be dropped off (for a fee) at the 'Bagcheck' building across the road to the east (mobile phones ok). Flowers can be purchased to lay at the feet of Mao's statue inside (although they are collected and resold at the end of the day) as well as leaflets for ¥1. There is disagreement among the locals as to whether the body is real or fake waxwork so make up your own mind. Mao souvenirs can be purchased at the exit.  edit
Temple of Heaven
Temple of Heaven
  • Temple of Heaven (天坛 Tiāntán). Far south east of Qianmen and the Tiananmen Square. Not only a beautiful sight, but also surrounded by a vast public park popular with local residents practicing tai chi, dancing, and so on in the mornings and on weekends. Home to many ancient trees, this is also the greenest place in Beijing. Just a short stroll away from the historical sights will bring you to peaceful woods and, amazingly, solitude (especially toward the West Gate). The temple itself was the site where the emperor prayed every year for good harvests and fair weather. Sadly there are few good views of the temple from outside the inner compound wall, which costs extra to enter. The most convenient way for getting there is taking the Subway Line 5 to the Tiantandongmen Station (this is Tiantan's East Gate). It also can be reached by buses 2, 7, 17, 20, 110, 120, 803, 814, 826 to the West Gate (天坛西门 Tiāntán Xīmén); or buses 35 and 106 to the North Gate (天坛北门 Tiāntán Běimén). Bear in mind that walking around this park will take some time. Park and historical sights (like the temple) ¥35, park only ¥15.  edit
Summer Palace
Summer Palace
  • Summer Palace (颐和园 Yíhéyuán). Extensive gardens and the ruins of palaces constructed by the Qing emperors. Most visitors stay in the front hill area, but if you prefer quiet places, the west bank and back hill areas are good choices. There are some quiet and secret ruins, caves, and other fun stuff in the back hill area. You could easily take bus No. 690 or 808 from Tian An Men Square to the terminal station, the Summer Palace. The Bus 826 would bring you from Temple of Heaven to Summer Palace.  edit
  • Beijing Zoo and Aquarium (北京动物园 Běijīng Dòngwù Yuán). (They do have pandas, but displays are not great, your best bet is to go to the Panda Breeding Centre in Chengdu, Sichuan Province). Some are concerned with the way animals are treated in the zoo, but the aquarium is one of the biggest in the world, and very impressive. The zoo was built on the sites of some ancient gardens, has lakes, pounds, pavilions and other beautiful old buildings. The Soviet revival Beijing Exhibition Hall is located nearby and has a Russian restaurant, "Moscow Restaurant". Please note that the Zoo is also an important traffic center, which means the terminal station for Bus No. 103,105,107 and 111. The new subway line 4 should be ready in 2009.  edit
  • Beihai Park (北海 Běihǎi), (Take bus 101 103 109 846 to the south gate, bus 13 118 810 to the north gate, opposite the Shi Sha Hai). Nov-Mar 9AM-4PM Apr-Oct 9AM-5PM. Beihai is a good place to take a glance at Zhongnanhai (中南海 Zhōngnánhǎi), heart of Communist China. There's a big island and white pagoda which was built in the 17th century. The giant buildings westward outside are PRC's Ministry of Defence and General Staff, which, to be honest, ruin the scene of the west bank. On the north bank, you can visit some small but beautiful gardens. ¥20.  edit
  • Yonghegong (雍和宮 Yōnghégōng, also known as Lama Temple or Palace of Peace). Closes at 4pm. The temple was built by Chinese emperors who harbored a deep fascination for the Tibetan (Tantric) version of Buddhism. Over the years, many Tibetan and Mongolian monks lived and taught here, and there are still monks in residence today. The temple is famous for its 18m statue of Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of sandalwood. Visitors aren't allowed to take pictures of holy statues inside most of the temples. You can view most of buildings in an hour or less. Entrance is ¥25 and seems a bit overpriced.  edit
  • Prince Gong's Mansion and Garden (公王府花园 Gōngwáng Fǔ Huāyuán), Liuyin St., Xicheng District. Opens from 8 AM to 5 PM every day until August. After August, it will open from 9 AM to 4 PM. The garden is packed with Chinese tourists, and the mansion displays the life of princes during the Qing dynasty. The standard entrance ticket is ¥20 to visit the mansion and park, but if you want to see some Peking Opera (京剧 Jīng Jù) and magic shows (魔术 móshù) the ticket is ¥60.  edit
  • Legation Quarter, (east of Tiananmen Square). Once famous in the Boxer Rebellion, the legation quarter is now occupied by government offices and army offices but can still be seen from outside. There's a wonderful bakery store called "Sapporo" near the legation quarter, famous for its breads and cheesecakes.  edit
  • Fragrant Hills (香山 Xiāng Shān), (in the northwestern corner of Beijing). A good place for weekend outings and picnics. Formerly a Qing imperial garden, today Fragrant Hills makes an easy short climb in the suburbs of Beijing. It's also home to the Fragrant Hills Hotel, designed by noted architect I.M. Pei (Louvre Museum Pyramid). Take buses 331, 360 or 634 to the last stop. Admission Fee is ¥10, students ¥5.  edit
  • Beijing Botanical Gardens (北京植物园 Běijīng Zhíwù Yuán), (Take buses 331, 726). Steps away from the east gate of Fragrant Hill. Acres of greenery and flowers for those tired of urban smog and traffic noise. Sir Johnston, teacher of the last emperor Puyi, had a villa in Cherry Glen, a silent and beautiful retreat in the Gardens. In the spring, the gardens hosts special exhibits of tulips, peach and plum blossoms, peonies, and the like. ¥10, students ¥5.  edit
  • Hutongs (胡同 Hútòng). Beijing's ancient alleyways, where you can find traditional Beijing architecture. They date back to when Beijing was the capitol of the Yuan dynasty (1266-1368). Most buildings in hutongs are made in the traditional courtyard (四合院 sìhéyuàn) style. Many of these courtyard homes were originally occupied by aristocrats, though after the Communist takeover in 1949 the aristocrats were pushed out and replaced with poor families. Hutongs can still be found throughout the area within the 2nd Ring Road, though many are being demolished to make way for new buildings and wider roads. Most popular among tourists are the hutongs near Qianmen and Houhai. The hutongs may at first feel intimidating to travellers used to the new wide streets of Beijing, but the locals are very friendly and will often try to help you if you look lost.  edit
  • Military Museum of the Chinese People's Revolution (中国人民革命军事博物馆 Zhōngguó Rénmín Gémìng Jūnshì Bówùguǎn), ☎ +86 10 68529647. A great place to read the official Chinese version of what happened in Chinese military history, from ancient times up to 1949. There are also airplanes, boats, guns, missiles, rockets and vehicles on display (including U.S. military hardware evidently seized during the Korean conflict). The exhibit in "The Hall of the War to Resist U.S. Aggression and Aid Korea" was unfortunately inaccessible as of April 2007. You can pay an extra ¥5 to take a picture in a 1980's era Chinese tank. Entrance fee is ¥20.  edit
  • China Aviation Museum (中国民航博物馆 Zhōngguó Mínháng Bówùguǎn), Datangshan, Chanping District (Take Bus 912 or 643 from Andingmen station). 8AM-5:30PM. A must see for all aviation fans. It is located about 50 km outside Beijing in Changping District and is probably better known by the name Datangshan (大汤山 Dàtāngshān). Best way to get there is to arrange a taxi from your hotel. The other more adventurous way is to take bus 912 (or 643 if you can't find the 912) from Andingmen bus station, just remember that 912 has some branch lines and not all of these go via museum. The museum hosts over 200 exhibits, many of them very rare. Entrance fee is ¥50, and an extra ¥8 if you want to board Chairman Mao's plane.  edit
  • National Museum of China (中国国家博物馆 Zhōngguó Guójiā Bówùguǎn), 16, East Chang'an St, Dongcheng district (On the east side of Tiananmen Square), ☎ +86 10 8447-4914, [7]. It is undergoing renovation from 2007 until 2010 and will not be accessible until finished.  edit
  • Ox Street Mosque (牛街礼拜寺 Niú Jiē Lǐbài Sì), 88 Niu St. Famous Mosque, beautifully decorated in red. A must see if staying for more than a few days. South of Forbidden City.  edit
  • Dashanzi Art District (大山子艺术区 Dàshānzǐ Yìshù Qū). Originally known as 798 Factory. A district full of galleries of contemporary Chinese art, located in an old industrial district. Also many Western style cafes.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

See Beijing 2008 which covers the Olympic areas.
  • Rent a bicycle. Traverse some of the remaining hutongs. There is no better way to see Beijing firsthand than on a bicycle but just be very aware of cars (Chinese driving styles may differ from those you are used to). See above for bike rental information.  edit
  • Visit the Temple of Heaven. If you go early in the morning you will see thousands of Beijingers starting the day with tai chi.  edit
  • Foot massage. Have a highly enjoyable and relaxing foot massage and/or pedicure etc (for a fraction of the price in the West) from any of the respectable and professional offerings in central Beijing (in the vicinity of the Beijing Hotel for example).  edit
  • Beijing opera at the Laoshe Tea House (老舍茶馆 Lǎoshě Cháguǎn), just west of Qianmen station. There always are short displays in the afternoon (about 40 min). They are free of admission, but you should buy a cup of tea. Long displays are in the evening. You should book a seat in advance, since the place is always crowded. Tickets start at ¥180 and include tea and snacks.  edit
  • International Shooting Range, ☎ +86 10 69771368 ext 3103 (Chinese only), [8]. Shoot Chinese automatic guns and other crazy military grade weapons at the International Shooting Range north of Beijing.  edit
  • Enjoy life as the locals do at a spa complex like The Bigeast Ocean Gymnastic Club, 200m east of Huawei Bridge, ☎ +86 10 87323329/+86 10 87323328. Has a huge sauna, 3 different kinds of spas to soak in, a steam room, and showers. After a jaunt in the spa room, get dressed up in pajamas and head upstairs to witness a variety show with comedians, singers, and clowns. After the show, you can relax in the reclining sofa room or grab some snacks from the cafe. The truly unique experience for someone who's "seen it all" in China.  edit
  • Also see Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa, Grand Hyatt Beijing Hotel, 1 East Chang An Avenue, ☎ +86 10 8518 1234 (), [9].  edit
  • Tsinghua Chi (清华池 Qīnghuá Chí), (Bus 23, 343, 14, 66, 70, 603, 7, 15, 102, 105 to Hu Fang Lu Zhan), ☎ +86 10 63546663/2, [10]. A spa experience from the famous Qinghua Chi, established in 1905. Great service. Affordable TCM treatments. Try the Ba Guan (Cupping) or acupuncture or opt for simpler manicure and pedicure and Massage.  edit

[edit] Learn

[edit] Universities

Beijing is the center of higher learning in China. As such it attracts the top talents from across China and is the destination for thousands of foreign scholars each year. Most of the universities are clustered in Haidian District in the northwestern part of the city. Nearly all of the universities in Beijing accept foreign students. Most foreign students are on Chinese language programs which can last from a few weeks to a couple of years. If you have a sufficient HSK level [11] you can enroll in programs to study other subjects.

Tsinghua University, Beijing, China. Founded in 1911
Tsinghua University, Beijing, China. Founded in 1911
  • Tsinghua University (清华大学 Qīnghuá Dàxué), [12].  edit
  • Peking University (北京大学 Běijīng Dàxué), [13].  edit
  • Renmin University of China (中国人民大学 Zhōngguó Rénmín Dàxué), [14].  edit
  • Beijing Language and Culture University (北京语言文化大学 Běijīng Yǔyán Wénhuà Dàxué), [15].  edit
  • University of International Business and Economics (对外经济贸易大学 Duìwài Jīngjì Màoyì Dàxué), [16].  edit
  • Beijing Normal University (北京师范大学 Běijīng Shīfàn Dàxué), [17].  edit
  • China Media University (中国传媒大学 Zhōngguó Chuánméi Dàxué), [18].  edit
  • Beijing University of Aeronautics and Astronautics (北京航空航天大学 Běijīng Hángkōng Hángtiān Dàxué), [19].  edit
  • Beijing University of Posts and Telecommunications (北京邮电大学 Běijīng Yóudiàn Dàxué), [20].  edit
  • Beijing Jiaotong University (北京交通大学 Běijīng Jiāotōng Dàxué), [21].  edit
  • Beijing Institute of Technology (北京理工大学 Běijīng Lǐgōng Dàxué), [22].  edit
  • Beijing University of Technology (北京工业大学 Běijīng Gōngyè Dàxué), [23].  edit
  • Beijing University of Science and Technology (北京科技大学 Běijīng Kējì Dàxué), [24].  edit
  • China Youth University for Political Sciences (中国青年政治学院 Zhōngguó Qīngnián Zhèngzhi Xuéyuàn), [25].  edit

[edit] Private Schools

  • Beiyan Language and Culture Institute (贝彦语言文化培训学校 Bèiyàn Yǔyán Wénhuà Péixùn Xuéxiào), [26]. A good place for Chinese language courses for Western students. Teaching quality may be greater than Beijing Language and Culture University.  edit
  • Global Village (地球村学校 Dìqiú Cūn Xuéxiào). Branches in both Wangjing and Wudaokou. This is an extremely popular place for Chinese language courses, especially for Korean students. Teaching quality is reportedly high.  edit
  • Hutong School, [27]. Offers intensive Chinese language courses and internship opportunities in a beautifully renovated courtyard. Very good prices and the staff are helpful and friendly.  edit
  • Frontiers School, [28]. Private school, cheaper than studying Chinese at any of the above, nice staff.  edit
  • Easyou, [29]. Private school, you can study for as little as a week, or for many months. Staff are friendly and helpful.  edit
  • That's Mandarin, [30]. One on one lessons. Students have reported they received good one-on-one attention at this school.  edit
  • The Beijing Center for Chinese Studies, [31]. A learning institution initially supported by Loyola Marymount University and currently by Loyola University of Chicago.  edit

[edit] Work

Most of the international business offices are in Guomao, Dawang, around the Eastern 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyangmen. The Central Business District (CBD) is centered around Guomao. Many technology companies have offices in Haidian.

Like all of China, finding a job teaching English in Beijing is relatively easy for native speakers. In fact, if you are of European descent some employers may assume that you are already qualified enough to teach English to Chinese students. However, more prestigious employers (especially universities and language schools) will generally require an English teaching qualification or a Bachelor's degree (normally in any discipline, although sometimes specifically in English/linguistics).

Caution: there has been something of an "explosion" in English teaching in recent years, but this has brought some attendant problems with unregulated schools who fail to deliver on their contracts with teaching staff. Most teachers have been getting by with business visas and working as outside contractors for the schools, but there was a government crackdown on this practice in the run-up to the Olympics. You are also strongly advised to check with existing teachers before signing a teaching contract with an unknown school.

See also: Teaching English.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Throughout nearly all markets in Beijing, haggling is essential. Especially when browsing through large, "touristy" shopping areas for common items, do not put it beneath your dignity to start bargaining at 15% of the vendor's initial asking price. After spending some time haggling, never hesitate to threaten walking away, as this is often the quickest way to see a vendor lower his or her prices to a reasonable level. Buying in bulk or in groups may also lower the price. Beware that if you start your bargaining at too low of a price, such as 5% of the asking price, the vendor may just immediately give up on trying to sell the item to you. How high or low the vendor sets the asking price depends on the customer, the vendor, the product's popularity, and even the time of day. Vendors also tend to target visible minorities more, such as Caucasians or people of African descent.

  • Wangfujing (王府井大街 Wángfǔjǐng Dàjiē). Beijing's most famous shopping street, nowadays with mostly the same international brands and modern malls you will find anywhere else in the world.  edit
  • Silk Street or the Silk Market (秀水街 Xiùshuǐ Jiē), 8 East Xiushui St., Jianguomen Dajie. This building is located east of Tian'anmen square. It was reopened in March 2005 as a 5 story air conditioned building selling entirely for foreign visitors. You can find luggage, leather bags, electronics, sporting goods, jewellery, clothing and Chinese artwork. This location caters almost entirely to foreign customers. However, compared to other Asian markets in, say, Hong Kong and Bangkok, this market may be overpriced. Counterfeit Polo Ralph Lauren golf shirts in Hong Kong are roughly 30HKD (US$4) while at the Silk Market, the general starting price is roughly US$50 and you would be lucky after lengthy bartering to get the shirt for US$20. Again, generally way overpriced for knock-off goods, and tourists might want to consider spending their money elsewhere.  edit
  • Sanlitun Yashou Clothing Market (雅秀服装市场 Yǎxiù Fúzhuāng Shìchǎng), 58 Gongti Beilu. This is very similar to Silk Street (see above) with slightly better prices. It's less touristy than Silk Street, and prices will start far closer to a reasonable sale price. The net result is the bargaining is far less agressive and you will probably feel more comfortable with your purchases here. The vendors are generally pleasant and fun to negotiate with. A great time to visit is in the mid afternoon, when sales are slower. There is a floor dedicated to